LAGUNA BEACH. A regal contender for the title of "OC's Top Thai," Royal Thai wins high praise for its elegant setting and exotic fare. The waitstaff, professional and attentive, eagerly point out favorites, and the menu boasts no shortage of them. Choose from meat and seafood options ­ tofu or calamari, scallops or pork? ­ and select from any number of sides. You'll also want to try Kang Khiao Wann (green curry with bamboo shoots and eggplant), Hot Thai Basil (with bell peppers and mushrooms), or Panang (red curry with carrots and bell pepper). Options are many, and it's safe to say that you can come here 100 times and never have the same thing twice. The Newport Beach location can be found at 4001 West PCH (949-645-8424).

LAGUNA BEACH. Folks in the know unabashedly proclaim this Laguna Beach treasure as one of Southern California's top Thai joints, and it attracts big crowds for weekday lunches and late-night weekend dinners. If you're looking for a quick bite between meetings, this is definitely the place to frequent; however, if you're looking for a leisurely meal, you might think twice, because the kitchen and waitstaff can have you in and out the door faster than you can say "drunken rice."

STANTON. With a house specialty like barbecued chopped catfish and curries that have set more than a few mouths ablaze, this casual Thai eatery is not for the faint of heart. Boasting a diverse menu that's decidedly not your standard Americanized Thai fare, Nakorn places little emphasis on smoke and mirrors. Instead of kitschy decor or overworked standards, all you'll find is good, homestyle Southeast Asian cookery. And what more could you really want?

Dana Point received a culinary boost when Thai This opened its doors. First-rate, homestyle Thai fare is the little restaurant's forte, and diners can expect to enjoy such traditional favorites as chicken curry in coconut milk, shrimp sautéed in garlic and cilantro, Thai noodles with shrimp and ground peanuts, and pork with fried rice and mixed vegetables. The atmosphere, casual and without pretense, is ideal for a lunch meeting or a quick bite before a movie.